The original domestic goddess, Elizabeth David, wasn’t wrong when she enthused on this partcular combination: “… an omelette should not be a busy, important, urban dish, but something gentle and pastoral with the clean scent of the dairy… the kitchen garden… of sorrel, chives, tarragon…”
There really is nothing more perfect. But how many people are either too terrified, or just don’t know how, to make one?
So here it is: easy, eggy, comforting and delicious: a solitary and sublime lunch for one.
3 fresh eggs (the best you can afford)
a selection of fresh herbs, I like a good pinch each of chervil, chives and tarragon
1 tablespoon freshly grated parmesan (optional)
a good knob of butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Gently beat the eggs with a fork, just to combine — do not over beat them. Add your herbs and the parmesan now.
Heat the butter in non-stick pan until it is just foaming. Pour in the eggs and immediately start moving the outside layer of egg in by drawing it towards the middle with your spoon, whilst tilting the pan so that any runny egg finds it way into the gaps. Keep doing this until the egg is looking nicely cooked around the edges, but is still a wee bit runny in the middle. What you don’t want is any white that still looks jelly-like or clear.
Tilt your pan again with a slight flick of the wrist and fold the omelette in two. Slide onto a warm plate and eat immediately.
My choice of accompaniment: a watercress salad, a glass of Sancerre and some soothing jazz.